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10/06/14 - Exploring the Freycinet Peninsula

The Freycinet Peninsula is famous for its relatively isolated Wineglass Bay sand beach. It's only accessible by foot and requires a 150 meter climb over a ridge. The trail is steep enough, but well built and well maintained. There's a beautiful overlook where countless pictures of the bay have been taken. An awful lot of people turn around here. We continued down to WIneglass Bay, but we didn't stop to explore. Instead we cut inland and headed towards the more isolated Hazard Beach. We crossed wetlands on a boardwalk and passed marshy sink holes.

Hazard Beach was wild and lovely. We trudged across the sand and continued our hike. We were working our way around Mount Mayson, taking the long route back to the parking lot. Even as we climbed, the ground stayed sandy, but we had better views of the blue water and eroded stone formations above and below us. We passed through forests full of soil forming trees that reminded us of Hawaii's pioneer kiawe. The trail turned and turned again, slowly rising. We were sure the parking lot was not far for quite some time, but then, we heard the first SUV gunning its engine. We emerged from the wilderness part way up the extremely civilized trail to the lookout. We were on our way home.


The start of the trail

Wineglass Bay as photographed by thousands of others

WIneglass Bay as photographed by those intrepid enough to climb down to it

Grass trees with a seed spike

The boardwalks across the marshland

Hazard Beach

One of the marshy ponds

The local version of a kiawe forest

A view down from the trail

Rock formations above

Rocks below

Keywords: australia


10/05/14 - On to Freycinet

We headed northeast to the Freycinet Peninsula and checked in to the Saffire resort. Like Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island this was quite a work of architecture with its picture windows, oversized common spaces and multiple levels to explore. We spent nearly an hour just figuring out how all the lights and automatic window blind controls worked in our room.

Across Coles Bay we can see the mountains of the Freycinet Peninsula, but after our long drive we only have time to explore the beach below the hotel. We didn't go very far, but we did explore the lagoon and the rocks before dinner. Tomorrow, we'll set out to explore in earnest.


The view from our room - The camera was tilted due to the unlimited drinks package.

The little stream near the hotel

It was spring down there.

A healthy sea star - nice to see

The rocks by the beach

The beach from the hotel down to Coles Bay, the nearby town

The mountains without architectural interpretation

Keywords: australia


10/04/14 - Hobart, Tasmania

We made it to Hobart in Tasmania, and we've been exploring the city. We made our way to the Salamanca Market, an old section of town along the waterfront, then we climbed up to Battery Point and wandered the 19th century bungalows on the heights.

We stayed a ways from the city center at the Islington which is a wonderful boutique hotel full of the owner's art collection. Each of the common rooms is full of wonderful things ranging from historical ceramics to modern art prints.


Hobart harbor

Bungalows

One of our favorites

Our hotel, the Islington

The view from our room, a private garden

Keywords: australia


10/04/14 - Hobart Harbor and the Waters Around Bruny Island

We spent our day in Hobart on the water out on a Seafood Seduction tour. Our guide was Robert Pennicott who took us out on one of his faster boats to raid the wild waters south of town and eat what we could find and then some. It was quite a cruise with choppy water and high sea cliffs along the way. We passed by his old house, where he began his nautical career after convincing his parents to buy him his first boat and setting up a seafood business to pay for it. We also passed by his old elementary school which had an excellent view of the water which was probably more useful for his future career than whatever was on the blackboard.

We stopped by an oyster farm and grabbed a bag of local oysters, then stopped to check out a salmon farm surrounded by a cloud of seagulls and one curious looking seal. Then we anchored off a private island where Robert and his daughter Mia set out to catch us the rest of our dinner. She grabbed a bunch of spiny sea urchins and he came back with some wonderful abalone. The sea urchins we ate raw, the abalone with garlic, ginger and spicy chile peppers. A few lobsters who had "just come along for the ride" joined our feast and were quite delicious.


The cliffs

More cliffs and choppy water

One of the sea caves

A salmon farm

Watching for escapees

Where we anchored for lunch

Our host and hostess preparing to catch dinner

A sea urchin

A sea eagle

Abalone

Our lobster friends

Keywords: australia, eagle


10/03/14 - Melbourne

After a night in the charming seaside town of Apollo Bay, we made it into Melbourne. The drive was beautiful, but challenging, with twists and turns and spectacular ocean views. Melbourne was a more serious driving challenge with bizarre driving rules, special lanes for making right turns from the left lane, tram traffic, pedestrian traffic and heavy machinery chewing up critical roads between us and our Thrifty car rental return garage.

Melbourne reminded us of New York with its hustle and bustle and urban sensibility. In contrast, Sydney was Los Angeles with its less formal manner. We wandered the city center with its streets and alleys and arcades, but we had dinner out in Saint Kilda, down by the waterfront. We spent the next day exploring more of Saint Kilda, checking out sea birds, the parks and esplanade, and watching the downtown skyline from the distance.

In town we found a cake supply shop, several book stores, fashionable clothing stores and a partially hidden Chinatown where we had fabulous freshly made dumplings. The main streets are wide with bus lanes and car lanes and acres of pedestrians. The alleys are bustling and lined with restaurants and fascinating shops.

We only had two nights and one full day in Melbourne. Next time, we'll stay longer.


The skyline as seen from St. Kilda

Downtown

More downtown

Fashionable clothing, at least for Martians

Ooh, cake decorations!

There's a bit of Venice (California) in Melbourne.

Wild beaches not far from downtown

More downtown, between traffic lights

Not quite New York, but a promising skyline

The view from across the river

Bicycle lanes and one of the bizarre, get left and wait for the light, then right turn lanes - either that or street corner suduko

Keywords: australia, los angeles


10/02/14 - More of the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has a number of fantastic eroded limestone features. We stopped at most, but not all of them. There were just too many. We had to stop at the Twelve Apostles, and so did everyone else. There was a huge car park here, full of cars, and a visitor center full of souvenirs and junk food. It was hard not to get into the spirit of things. We took the underpass to the ocean and joined the throng.

The scenery did not disappoint, but after the Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands, we knew what to expect. We wandered the walkways and checked out the various viewpoints. The stone formations were beautiful as were the sea and sky.

It was impossible to get down to the water from here, but just a few kilometers down the road were the Gibson Steps. The descent looked daunting, but the steps were well designed. The beach was broad and the rock formations fascinating. We took pictures of a young couple posed on a rock. They spoke Mandarin, which has replaced Japanese as the second language of tourism in Australia, but we used the universal sign language of tourists everywhere and hope we added a bit to their vacation.

The road turned inland. There were a number of turn offs which lead to the Great Ocean Walk, a hiking trail along the coast, but we really didn't have time for the side trails. We did check out the Otway lighthouse, but there were only limited options for exploring here. We did see a koala in a tree by the roadside and we spotted an echidna in the parking lot, so we weren't disappointed.










Keywords: australia


10/02/14 - Bay of Islands and Bay of Martyrs

The Great Ocean Road is one of the great drives of Australia, comparable to the Pacific Coast Highway in California. Almost everyone stops at The Twelve Apostles, but fewer know about the Bay of Martyrs which has an even more amazing collection of rockstacks, coastal columns of eroded limestone decorated with carve outs, wild vegetation and sea tunnels. Right next door is the Bay of Islands, a set of wild beaches and headlands.

We spent some time admiring the "martyrs", then even more time wandering along the coast, following the trails and staircases down to small beaches or out onto shrub covered rocky redoubts. We probably would have explored even more, but we had kilometers to travel and there was more to see.


The Bay of Martyrs

More martyrs

More of the bay

Islands or martyrs? Your guess is as good as ours.

One of the sea caves

One of the islands

Another bird enjoying the view

Eroded rock formations

More of the coast

Keywords: australia


10/01/14 - Port Fairy

Port Fairy is a tourist town, but it has a lot to offer. We stayed at Oscar's and dined at the Merrijig Inn. The town is at the mouth of a river and is still full of boats. We could walk from our hotel out to the dock which ran along the river, and we followed the track out to Griffiths Island. The dock led to a park and the park had causeways out past the marshes and tidal inlets to a surprisingly wild place. We didn't explore much, as dinner beckoned and it was getting dark, but Griffiths Island was green and grassy and wild as it faced the sea.

The docks run along the Moyne River.

Causeways lead out to Griffiths Island.

The island is wild and grassy.

Did we mention wild?

Merrijig's Inn had surprisingly good food.

Keywords: australia


09/30/14 - On the Road to Port Fairy

We followed the coastal road from Penola to Port Fairy and made a few stops along the way. The Limestone Coast is named for the underlying rock, so there were a number of interesting formations. We took a chalk road to the Piccaninnie Ponds right along the coast. This was mainly grass and scrub land, but we spotted a lizard or two and found a lovely, deserted beach.

We continued along the road through flat country and noticed a mountain jutting out of the fields to the right. This was Mount RIchmond, an extinct volcano. We didn't know what to expect, and we were a bit tight on time, so we never did get to the overlook. Still, we spotted our first wild koala perched in a tree which was a real treat.


A view of an extinct volcano from Mount Gambier

The trail at Piccaninnie Ponds

One end of a lizard

The beach

The other end of the lizard, or more likely, the other end of another lizard

Wetlands

The trail on Mount Richmond

A koala

A better look

The road down from Mount Richmond to the flat plains below

More wild trees of Mount Richmond

Keywords: australia


09/29/14 - Penola and the Naracoorte Caves - 2

One of the caves had a huge fossil bed, with ancient kangaroo skeletons. It was an active research site with a lecture area, so we got to see some restored skeletons and examine some of the interesting specimens. Then, we explored the cave's more recent history and learned a bit about Victorian cave decoration. Calla lilies are not native to limestone caves, though they are rather pretty.

Back in Penola, we visited the Katnook WInery which had excellent wines which we doubt we will ever find in the United States. We explored the town, particularly Petticoat Lane, an old, partly restored, Victorian section of town. There were a lot of charming old houses and charming old fashioned gardens, including an herb garden, open to the public. For a small donation, one could even grab a few fresh herbs for one's dinner.

To be honest, we hadn't planned on seeing this area, but we did have to get from Adelaide to Melbourne, and an article in our in flight magazine made us curious. We aren't big improvisors when we travel, but this improvisation definitely paid off.


Some restored fossils in the Fossil Cave

A cave entrance

Some flowers

Down below

A view from down below - look closely for calla lilies

Some Victorian era gardening at a cave entrance

Dramatic light

More caves

Historic Penola

An old fashioned garden

Another garden in Penola

Keywords: australia


09/28/14 - Penola and the Naracoorte Caves - 1

Reluctantly, we left Kangaroo Island and flew to Adelaide where we rented a car and drove through farm country, not wine country, to Penola. Penola is the main town in the Coonawara Wine district and home to Mary McKillop, the first Australian saint. Needless to say, we were more interested in the wine country, and even more than the wine country, we were interested in the Naracoote Caves.

This whole area of South Australia is known as the Limestone Coast, so the wonderful limestone formations of the Naracoorte Caves were irresistible. We signed up for three tours in a row, preceded by and followed by some exploring on our own. The guided tours were wonderful, so we saw speleothems galore. Speleothems are sometimes stalactites, hanging from the ceiling, sometimes stalagmites, rising from the floor, and sometimes columns, connecting the floor and ceiling.

We also took a remote camera guided tour of the bat cave. There's a huge colony of bats in a cave that is closed to the public, but monitored by a number of remote controlled cameras. We zoomed in on juveniles hanging on street corners, mothers huddling with others and otherwise virtually entered the life of the cave.

To be continued.


The water tower in Penola - Water is a big thing in Southern Australia. Everyone has a cistern.

We had two excellent dinners at the Rendezvous Restaurant in Penola. We also had two excellent breakfasts based on their porkerhouse pork roasts.

The "warm up" diorama at Naracoorte Caves got us in the mood for exploring.

The caves

and more caves

We love exploring underground.

We were down below for hours.

Another great limestone formation

Almost crystalline pipes

Dramatic lighting and transparent rock

And even more caves

Keywords: australia


09/27/14 - Kelly Caves to the Sea

The sky was gray and threatening, but we set out anyway. We pulled into the Kelly Caves parking lot, eight kilometers inland, and set out for the sea. The walk was through brush, mainly a variety of eucalyptus which varies in height from ground cover to full fledged tree depending on growing conditions. There were also yucca like grass trees that looked like oversized bunches of grass, but with sharp spikes all around.

We made our way slowly, sighting two echidnas by the trail side. We made our way to a large flat lake and had a black swan experience. This was Australia, so there was a flock of black swans on the glassy surface.

Then, we climbed a sand dune, now fully vegetated and well inland. It was over a 100 meter climb, quite a challenge on soft sand. It looked like any other hill, but the soft footing reminded us that this, like many others on Kangaroo Island, was a stabilized sand dune.

Eventually, the trail opened out to a large green field, almost like a golf course. Here was a great field of kangaroos. This was the far side of the great green field we had visited earlier for our sundown Kangaroos and Canapes excursion. There were no canapes on this side of the river, but plenty of kangaroos.

We left the green field, and from here the trail followed the river, and the river led us to the sea. For a while we were in brush land, but then we saw the line of coastal dunes ahead. Soon we were looking down from the dunes at a gorgeous crescent of beach by the sea.


An anthill - The high walls forecast flooding rain.

The trail through the brush

A grass tree with its seed stalk

A spider orchid

Black swans

One of the echidnas quite sure it is hiding

More of the scene

Another echidna not bothering to hide

The river we followed on the latter part of the hike

The beach and the sea

A more dramatic view, thanks to lots of threatening looking sky

Keywords: australia


09/26/14 - Seal Point Sea Lions

Kangaroo Island has a lot more animals than just kangaroos. Today we went to Seal Point to see the sea lions. These look a lot like seals, but seals tend to wriggle along the ground rather awkwardly. Sea lions are more like quadrupeds, actually using some component of their tails for locomotion, rather than just dragging behind.

The reserve has slowly accustomed the sea lions to people. If we don't hassle them, they don't mind us. This means we can wander around in clusters and get a close look at these wonderful sea mammals. We saw females nursing and males engaging in pushing matches, so we felt right at home.

It doesn't really show up in the photos, but male sea lions have a pale area around their necks and on their heads that look a bit like lions' manes, hence the name sea lion. There were other land mammals waiting for their turn visiting theses sea mammals, or we would have spent the day on the beach with them.


The view from our window

The walk down to the beach

Look who's here.

Welcome to the beach.

Just resting

Some of the gang

Two males tussling - The guy on the left was a real trouble maker.

A nursing mother and baby

More sea lions

We almost took this guy home with us. Unlike seals, sea lions don't smell like fish.

The vegetation behind the beach

Keywords: australia


09/25/14 - Rocky River to Maupertuis Bay

We took a long walk down the Rocky River from near the Snake Lagoon to Maupertuis Bay. The walk started inland with high shrubs and bushes. Then it opened out with our first view of the Rocky River. We crossed on a wooden bridge and followed the canyon walls across folded rocks.

It was spring, so the flowers were in bloom, but few were familiar. We saw lizards, the blue sky and the blue river as it flowed in broad channels and through rapids. There was some climbing up and down rocks, but it was easy going.

Then we saw our first glimpse of the sea. The river flowed over rocks in channels with little rushing waterfalls and emptied out onto a sandy beach. It was a smuggler's paradise, a lovely beach in the middle of nowhere, perfect to bringing in a small boat loaded with contraband koala skins. Above us in the canyon were the smuggler hideouts, shelters naturally carved from the rock walls.

Maybe we let our imagination get ahead of us, but the mouth of the Rocky River was a wonderful, evocative place to be.


The trailed started closed, a cut through the high native vegetation.

It was spring.

Our first look at the river

More of the river

A lizard

So, why is it called the Rocky River?

Another lizard

Our first glimpse of the sea

More rock formations

The mouth of the river

A smuggler hideout, we're sure.

Keywords: australia, waterfall


09/24/14 - Admiralty Arch and Remarkable Rocks

We've been exploring Kangaroo Island. We visited Admiralty Arch with its seals and sea lions and the Remarkable Rocks which are an unusual granite formation on an island of limestone. We also spotted a few koalas with some help from our guides.

RIght near our hotel

One of the koalas

Plant life

Sea life

More sea life

The Southern Ocean in action

Wild waters

Sea life

Remarkable rocks

Post modern sculpture - either that or more remarkable rocks

The rocks from a distance

Keywords: australia


09/23/14 - Welcome to Kangaroo Island

We made it to Kangaroo Island. The next thing south is the Antarctic. We're staying at an amazing hotel built into the cliff side. The chef is a genius. They have to truck in electricity, and we don't want to even imagine where they get the water for our rain showers.

FIrst thing, we took the cliff side hikes east and west of the hotel. The scenery is exotic. The shrubs are gum trees of various sizes. The flowers are in wild bloom.

We took the Kangaroo and Canapes tour. It's less formally known as Booze and Roos. We took a shuttle bus to a field not far from the hotel. It was once a farm, cleared from the brush, but now home to enough kangaroos to launch a Volkswagen to the moon by sheer hopping power. The grass is cut as short as a golf green's, and the ground is covered with kangaroo by-product, but the kangaroos are calm even as we approach them.

That was just our first day.


A view from near our hotel

That's where we are staying, or at least part of it.

Flowers - It's spring down here.

Another view

The view west

Another view from the cliffs

Here's where we went to watch kangaroos.

Can you guess what we saw on Kangaroo Island?

The sunset scene

More roos

Sunset light, and, oh yes, kangaroos

Keywords: australia


09/21/14 - The Taronga Zoo

Whenever we are in Sydney, we make a point of getting to the Taronga Zoo. We take the ferry from The Quay and then get ready for spotting wildlife in Australia. This means the usual wombats, bandicoots and koalas, but also getting used to spotting Australian critters in the wild. They are redoing the Australian section of the zoo, but the exhibits of birds, the nocturnal animal house and the platypus aquarium were all open. It takes a while for one's eye to get used to spotting the various birds hidden in bushes and behind grasses. We didn't even try to take any pictures of them. They never come out. The nocturnal animals are even more of a challenge, as the exhibit hall is dark. After a bit, we got used to it, so we saw a number of animals, and to our surprise, photos weren't too bad. The platypus was a real treat. It had caught and was eating a yabee, a sort of miniature lobster.

The view from the Taronga ferry.

The zoo entrance

One of the many koalas

Another koala

Lizards

These two mouse like creatures were the first we managed to spot in the dark. The photo is surprisingly good considering that no flash was allowed.

This is an echidna, covered with feather quill spines.

Keywords: australia


09/20/14 - Bondi Beach

So, where are we? If you guessed Vancouver, you were right, but we're in Sydney now, in New South Wales, not the one outside of Victoria.

We've already been to the Sydney Aquarium and taken a long walk from Bondi Beach south to Coogee. Bondi is Sydney's famous surfing beach. The water was wild, and the waves were high, but, no, we didn't do any surfing. We left that to others who have some slight clue about the surfer's art. We did follow the trail along the beach, up along the bluffs, then down to another beach, then up, then down and so on. Parts of the route reminded us of West Seattle, some Honolulu, some Santa Monica, and some the Monterey waterfront trail.

It was a beautiful walk. We didn't have to get wet to enjoy it, though in some places the water was tempting. Especially tempting were the wild, sea water swimming pools along the way. These are swimming pools built low, so they are flooded by the surf at high tide, so one gets the benefits of fresh salt water, but one is protected from the surf.


Bondi Beach, the quintessential beach town

A wild sea water pool

Another wild beach below a wild bluff

Surf's up!

Kookaburra

More wild beach, this one a bit like Monterey

Bluffs - That's the Waverly cemetery above

A more protected beach

Coogee, our final beach

One of the many birds

End of our journey

Keywords: australia


02/11/10 - Sunrise, Sunset

This isn't a software site, but Kaleberg Laboratories does maintain a few little pieces of software. There's our equation solver, Equato, a computer teaching tool, Cardiac, a program for making volvelles, and a number of tide forecasting and tide finding tools. One surprisingly popular program is Sunrise Sunset which simply produces an iCal calendar giving the times of sunrise and sunset. It is just an old basic program rewritten. You type in your latitude and longitude, your time zone and a few other particulars and out scoots an iCal calendar ready to use. Apparently, a fair number of people have some concern with when the sun rises and sets. Now and then we get feedback about the program, usually noting that it is broken. The latest note was from an Australian who reminded us that they do daylight savings time a bit differently in the southern hemisphere, so we've added a Down Under option to account for winter and summer being reversed. It still doesn't support British double war time, but the updated version is now more useful for people on the other half of the planet.

If you have a Mac, you can download the program here.

Keywords: software, science, kale, australia


11/14/09 - From The Annals of Film Editing

From an article on the usefulness of subtitles in learning accents in foreign languages published by the journal Science:
"For the study, Dutch students who were fluent in English watched either a 25-minute episode of the Australian sitcom Kath & Kim, whose characters speak in broad accents from the Melbourne suburbs, or a version of Trainspotting, which was edited down to the same length by taking out the offensive parts."

According to the IMDB, Trainspotting has a 94 minute running time, so they cut out 69 minutes. That's pretty impressive.

Keywords: art, science, australia


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