12/05/19 - Webb Camp - Day Two - Part Three

12/04/19 - Webb Camp - Day Two - Part Four

12/03/19 - Webb Camp - Day One - Part One

We had our own private bathroom out behind the tent. This included a siphon flush toilet - just add water - and an outdoor shower. There was also a bowl and pitcher of water for washing up. That was frozen over by morning. We were at over 12,000 feet above sea level, and it was cold out. The tent was around freezing in the morning and the camp was set up facing west. That meant that the sun wasn't going to reach us until it had risen over the hills surrounding the east side of the camp.

We settled in for breakfast and watched the sun rise, the shadow of the mountains sweeping across the plain to our west. It was dark and cold, but there was a brazier in the dining tent, hot coffee and a hot breakfast. We had a view of the waterfall, Fincha Habera. We watched as the shadow crept closer and closer to us. Eventually, it lit up the falls. By the time breakfast was over the sun had reached our tent. The frost on the tent was was melting.

We went out for a walk. We descended to the base of the waterfall, crossed a stream and headed south. We left the protected river canyon and were soon heading across the plain with its scrub vegetation and distant mountains.

12/02/19 - Webb Camp - Day One - Part Two

There were also red wolves. We only saw them in the distance. They were beautiful creatures. They mainly hunted smaller animals, like those incredibly useful grass rats and elusive giant mole rats. The wolves didn't bother the cattle who were grazing on the plains. In fact, we were told they use the cattle like stalking horses to hide their scent and lull their prey into a false sense of security.

We spent hours walking across the plain, now and then climbing up to a rise, then down into a valley. Then we saw a distinctive silhouette in the rocks above. It was a nyala, an antelope, and we were to see many more of them.

12/01/19 - Webb Camp - Day One - Part Three

11/30/19 - Webb Camp - Day One - Part Four

11/29/19 - Webb Camp Arrival

Webb Camp really was a camp. We had to walk the last hundred meters or so, but there was our luxurious campsite with our sleeping tent, a dining tent, a cook tent and tents for the staff. Counting our guide and our driver, there were probably eight people working there so that we could explore in comfort. We've tried camping on our own before, decades ago. The air mattresses deflated, the tent blew away and our safety lantern ignited a small grass fire that was only suppressed thanks to quick action by more experienced campers at the site.

Did we mention the waterfall? Our campsite looked out over a waterfall. The dining tent had an excellent view of the waterfall. Then, exhausted from travel, we went to bed.

11/28/19 - Simien Mountains - Day Two - Part One

As we climbed, the country changed. It was grassland and drier. The views were spectacular. We even had a little adventure getting through a muddy patch. We walked a bit to lighten the load, That patch was a problem for others as well. Many people in Ethiopia get around by minibus, but, here, they had to stop, get out of the bus, take the baggage off the roof and help push the minibus through the mud.

We climbed even higher, and there they were, the ibex. They were huge antelope, and the males had dark beards and massive horns. The country was grassland, and dotted with lobelia, tall plants that look like some kind of palm tree. The ibex were calm, so we had some great views.

11/27/19 - Simien Mountains - Day Two - Part Two

11/26/19 - Simien Mountains - Day Two - Part Three

11/25/19 - Simien Mountains - Day One - Part One

We set off for the national park. We stopped by the office in Debark to pay our admission fee. Our guide knew everyone there, and they knew him. We drove to the park entrance where we picked up our guard, armed with an AK-47. We climbed higher into the park and had teasing views of one of the escarpments, a canyon wall, surprisingly green.

We took a good long walk. Our plan of working our way up from Addis Ababa at around 8000 feet to the Simien Mountains at 10000 to 12000 feet meant we were comfortable enough with the thin air for hiking. As we walked, we were surrounded by a familiar scent. We looked down. We were walking on wild thyme, a common ground cover.

We wandered a fair ways, across fields, into wooded valleys. We had spectacular views of the escarpment and the valley below. Then, there were geladas. There was an entire field of them. They didn't seem to be bothered by us, so we watched as they whole troupe ate and groomed and did the usual primate things. There were horribly cute babies and rambunctious teenagers. We felt right at home in the Simien Mountains.

11/24/19 - Simen Mountains - Day One - Part Two

We headed on, and there were even more spectacular views. The Simien Mountains are canyon country, but there is a lot of rainfall. Everything is lush and green, all but the steepest canyon walls.

11/23/19 - Simien Mountains - Day One - Part Three

Back out the lodge, we spotted an eagle perched on a tree. He or she was most cooperative, so we have a few good photographs including one in flight.

Then, we heard some commotion outside. We had visitors. A group of geladas were right outside our room. Geladas like to sleep at the base of canyons to discourage birds of prey. These were heading down and paid a call while passing our perch.

11/22/19 - Simien Mountain - Sunrise

11/21/19 - Simien Mountains - On to Limalimo

Then we headed on to the Simien Mountains. Our road quickly took us out to the countryside. We headed into the hills and quickly gained elevation. The skies turned gray. We kept on our way, through towns and through countryside. Then, as we neared Limalimo Lodge, where we would be staying, the rain burst into hail. It clattered on our windshield. The driver turned up the heat in our car.

Our lodge was welcoming. We arrived late, in time for the sunset light and the dramatic moonrise.