Our first visit to Patina was a revelation. This
low profile restaurant on Melrose, well past the bustling shopping district,
in Los Angeles was run by a genius, Joachim Splichal, the sole holder of
that rarified degree - doctorate of pomme de terrology. This man knew his
potatoes. They were wonderful mashed with garlic and full of lamb or perfectly
boiled and sliced and made into a potato lasagna with wild mushrooms. At
Patina, the potatoes alone were worth the trip although the broad selection
of offal dishes including kidneys and cock's combs were incredible. They
even had a special section of the menu full of "classics" full
of old favorite dishes that the regulars just wouldn't let die.
But on our most recent visit, things seemed to have changed. Perhaps it
is a result of Dr. Splichal's imperial ambitions. He has opened a number
of new restaurants lately including Pinot
Blanc in Napa Valley. The food was just no longer
special anymore, in fact, it was not much better than international hotel
food - well executed but rather anonymous. Clearly, the master was engaged
elsewhere.
We can only hope that Dr. Splichal returns his attentions to his flagging
flagship restaurant before it drifts into the mists of institutional assimilation.
After all, Jeremiah Towers has managed to keep Stars first rate in San Fransisco
and he has his finger in more pies than little Jack Horner and Simple Simon.
As we said, we can only hope.
