Review of Cafe Campagne

Cafe Campagne has a sister restaurant, Campagne, located just a few steps away, but Cafe Campagne is in a class by itself. Stepping into the place is like taking a brief visit to France. Whether you come for lunch or dinner, they serve delectable bistro food.

We are always suckers for their hanger steak with fries. This is one of the best cuts of the cow, with a dark, vibrant flavor, that is nicely cut by the brightness of the fried potatoes and rouille. (No ketchup here). Their roast chicken reminded us of France, or Cafe Louis, with its rich flavor and crisp exterior. You can get crepinette here, little packages of goodies cooked in a bag of caul fat, or guinea hen with fried spaetzel. In truth, you will not go wrong ordering any bird here, whether it be quail, chicken, guinea hen, squab, duck or pigeon.

As for vegetables, their use is imaginative and the results excellent. We've had their delightful green salads, braised escarole, asparagus and, of course, potatoes.

One particularly excellent dish, and one we have only had at Cafe Campagne was their duck confit salad. This is a sort of chicken salad with celery and mayonaisse, except that instead of chicken, they use a spicy preserve of duck. Normally, I'd never waste duck confit on such a concoction, but here, they do it right.

So, don't bother with Campagne, head down a few steps towards the market and enjoy the best French bistro cooking in the northwest.

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