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Tojo is a master of his domain, and his domain is the other side of the sushi counter where we sit to dine at his indulgence. Aside from picking a brand of saki and saying "enough" after a long round of delicious courses, we never order at Tojo's, and we have never had anything but superlative dish after superlative dish.

One never knows what to expect. Our latest meal started with sea urchin roe on rice, went on to a soup of smoked sable and mushrooms, a "rainbow roll" of salmon, smoked eel, white fish and avocado, salmon and flying fish roe in an egg wrap, and then on and on. We had what was possibly the best smoked salmon we have ever tasted, Atlantic or Pacific style. We had an amazing lobster roll up and a little salad of crab, lobster and avocado.

It was hard to pull ourselves away from the counter.

What will he be serving the next time? We can only imagine, but we are sure to love it.

The service is friendly, and while the master doesn't have much time for small talk, Master Tojo knows how to make us feel right at home.

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