(6 W 24th St - 212 691 6359)

Update July 2001

Follonico has recently closed. Funny how one can tell when a place is starting its slide.

Update May 2000

We used to recommend Follonico for lunch, but on our last try, we found the menu vastly reduced and the wine list so reduced that there was only one red wine available by the glass. Worse, the sommelier was unable to characterize any of the other wines on the list. We left and went to I Trulli.

Follonico is a low key Italian restaurant on a gritty side street. Inside it is welcoming with staid wood paneling, a comfortable bar and a spacious dining room. They serve some of the best Italian food in the city with an emphasis on seafood. Their fritto misto with squid, octopus and whatever else is swimming is nicely fried and they always have soft shell crabs served in a variety of ways. This most recent visit, they were served with guacamole and fried lotus root slices suggesting a recent California influence.

Their pasta is freshly made and cooked al dente. We tried the spicy putanesca and an excellent linguine with pesto, slice potatoes and fat green beans. For lunch, try the pizzas, for dinner, any of the sea food dishes or the steak or the wild boar and, when it is on the menu, make a point of trying the bagna cauda, sort of an Italian fondue with heated olive oil.

We have never been disappointed at Follonico, season by season. It is a charming and friendly oasis with a good wine list and great food.

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